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Thinking Of Traveling To Alaska?
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by:
Norm Goldman
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Today Norm Goldman, Editor of www.Sketchandtravel.com
and www.Bookpleasures.com
is pleased to have as a guest, writer and travel book author, Nancy
Thalia Reynolds.
Nancy’s principal area of expertise is Alaska, British
Colombia, and the Yukon Territory. Nancy is co-author of Going Places
Family Getaways In The Pacific Northwest.
Good Day Nancy and thank you for accepting our invitation to be
interviewed.
Norm:
Please tell our readers something about yourself, your educational
background, and the books you have written and are now in the process
of writing.
Nancy:
I’m a 5th generation Pacific Northwesterner. My father had a
profound wanderlust and an enthusiasm for discovering new people and
places that rubbed off on me. A university professor, he held jobs
around the U.S. and Brazil. I lived in California, Brazil, Washington
and Oregon before moving to New York at age 17 to attend Sarah Lawrence
College. My upbringing allowed me to feel at home in widely different
milieus and engendered deep curiosity about other lands, and
I’ve had a passion for travel since childhood. Although I did
cherish dreams of writing a great novel as a kid, the passion for
travel writing came later.
After college, I moved to Canada and worked a few years before
attending York University Law School. On graduating, I worked at public
interest law firms first in Toronto, then Vancouver where I wrote and
edited legal self-help materials before moving to the US to marry. At
that time I made a strategic decision to abandon law and become a
full-time writer.
My first venture into authoring a book was when I wrote Adopting Your
Child was published in 1993.
This opened the doors for me.
I contributed the British Columbia section to the fourth edition of
Going Places: Family Getaways in the Pacific Northwest, published in
2000, and went on to write Going Places: Alaska and the Yukon for
Families, which comes out in April 2005. Both titles are available from
Sasquatch Books.
I just completed a new Alaska travel book, Activity Guide to the Inside
Passage: Whether You Have Four Hours or Four Days. Sasquatch will
publish it in January 2006.
Norm:
Where is the Yukon Territory and Alaska, and how easy is it to travel
from the United States, Canada or Europe to these areas?
Nancy:
Yukon Territory is bordered to the south by British Columbia, to the
east by the Northwest Territories, to the north by the Beaufort Sea in
the Arctic and to the west by the state of Alaska. Most of Alaska sits
to the left of Canada, but the gorgeous Alaska panhandle, a narrow
coastal strip with widely separated communities, many on islands, runs
several hundred miles south, bordered to the east by BC. At the top of
the panhandle, the towns of Skagway and Haines offer road access to the
rest of Alaska, the US and Canada.
The easiest way to get here is by air. International air carriers serve
Vancouver and Anchorage. National carriers serve these destinations and
Whitehorse (the Yukon capital). Alaska Airlines serves major Alaska
cities and many smaller communities. Air Canada and its partners serve
BC and the Yukon. Throughout the region, huge distances make plane
travel essential. Smaller airline, charter and air taxi service is
widely available across the north. From Seattle, a non-stop flight to
Anchorage takes 3.25 hours. From Vancouver, a non-stop flight to
Whitehorse takes 2.5 hours.
Highways run north through BC and Alberta, connecting to the Alaska
Highway, which starts officially at Dawson Creek, BC, and runs through
the Yukon into central Alaska. It is 817 miles from Seattle to mile
zero of the Alaska Highway; and 548 miles from Calgary.
The Alaska Highway itself is 1,390 miles long, ending at Delta
Junction, Alaska. Another 98 miles brings you to Fairbanks. The road is
paved all the way, and services are rarely more than 100 miles
apart--usually closer.
Once in the Yukon, motorists can drive to Dawson City, ground zero of
the Klondike Gold Rush, and over the Top of the World highway to
Alaska. The Dempster Highway leads north from Dawson to Inuvik, through
the Northwest Territories. It’s not paved but in good summer
weather can be driven comfortably.
In Alaska one can drive from Anchorage to Denali National Park, home of
the continent’s highest mountain, spectacular Mount McKinley,
in eight hours on good paved highway. Four more hours brings you to
Fairbanks, with road access to the Yukon and points north. Many
northern highways offer good driving conditions, breathtaking mountain
and ocean views, and very little traffic apart from the occasional
moose or bear ambling across the roadway.
Norm:
Would you consider Alaska and the Yukon Territory a good choice for a
romantic getaway or wedding and honeymoon destination? Why?
Nancy:
The answer is a resounding yes--for the right couple. This region
contains the world’s largest protected wilderness, spanning
Alaska, British Columbia, and Yukon Territory and designated a UN World
Heritage site.
The scenery is magnificent, access to wildlife unequalled, and despite
its ever-increasing popularity as a tourist destination, has many
all-but-undiscovered destinations to explore. Native cultures, largely
eclipsed down south, are major players in the north, and are glad to
share their world with visitors. However, if your idea of a holiday or
honeymoon is lying on a tropical beach, you’ll want to look
elsewhere.
Let’s look at weddings first.
Getting your wedding party up north can be a challenge, although it
could also be a magnificent experience. Alaska has several five-star
hotels in the Anchorage area; otherwise most choices can be
characterized as comfortable but rustic. A large wedding party and
guests--more than 100 people--could be accommodated in Anchorage,
Juneau, Fairbanks or Whitehorse. The Captain Cook, in Anchorage, or the
nearby Alyeska Resort in Girdwood, would be top choices. Smaller
wedding parties can be comfortably accommodated in many places.
For honeymoons and romantic getaways, options are endless. Cities offer
the usual urban amenities; but to experience the unique attractions of
Alaska and the Yukon, try:
· An out-of-the-way spot like the Boardwalk Lodge on Prince
of Wales Island, a great choice for fishing enthusiasts. In recent
years, visitors have clamoured for a look at the world’s
largest brown bears (AKA grizzlies).
· An August trip to Katmai National Park & Preserve,
with a stay at the Brooks Lodge, a short walk from brown bears fishing
for salmon, is unforgettable.
· The lovely Windsong Lodge near Seward on the Kenai
Peninsula makes a great home base from which to explore Kenai Fjords
National Park where you can get up close to beautiful Exit Glacier,
hike some of Alaska’s loveliest trails, and kayak among
glacier-carved fjords.
· The Yukon, especially Dawson City and Whitehorse, come to
life in summer. A trip at the start or end of the season is
recommended. Even in August, fall colours are rampant and yet
temperatures can rise above 25C/77F. Take a day trip up the Yukon River
to Eagle, Alaska.
Norm:
You mentioned to me that you have traveled to the north by just about
every means available: plane, cruise ship, sailboat, motoring. Which
one did you prefer and why?
Nancy:
I enjoyed all of them. Driving is great because it allows the most
access to the region. If you have the luxury of time, the options are
infinite! For visiting southeast Alaska, travel by water is my top
choice. The variety of options grows every year. At the high end are
small luxury cruise lines, or you can book a sailboat, complete with
captain and crew, for your party and go exploring. For most visitors,
especially those unfamiliar with the region, large cruise-ship travel
is often the most comfortable choice. To experience Alaska as Alaskans
do, I suggest taking the Alaska ferry up the Inside Passage; it
combines the most access at the least cost in time and money. And to
simply get north fast and start exploring, nothing beats flying.
Norm:
When is the best time to visit Alaska and the Yukon Territory from the
point of view of weather, costs, crowds, and the availability of
flights from the USA, Canada and Europe?
Nancy:
The most affordable time to visit is the so-called “shoulder
season.” Up north, that’s May and September.
Attractions are open and flights are available, but crowds are thinner.
Mosquitoes, which can be a trial throughout the north, are scarce in
those months, yet days are still long. Thrifty-minded visitors can find
cheaper flights and often bargain for lower hotel rates at this time.
Cruise fares tend to be lower as well. For a winter trip, avoid
Christmas holidays and school midwinter breaks to obtain the best
rates.
Norm:
How safe is it to travel to Alaska and the Yukon Territory?
Nancy:
Quite safe. The crime rate is low and human-generated risks are few.
However, if you plan to get into the wilderness, you’ll need
to be prepared, inform yourself and take sensible precautions. Read up
on the terrain and the wildlife. Learn how to handle bear and moose
encounters. If you’re visiting in January, you’ll
need cold-weather clothing suitable for average low temperatures of
-22C/-9F. It’s not unheard of for temperatures to reach
-40C/-40F. On the other hand, it comes as a nice surprise to many
summer visitors to the Alaska and Yukon interior that summer
temperatures can soar to 27C/81F or even higher.
Norm:
Could you give our readers an idea of the costs involved if travel
originates from the USA or Canada?
Nancy:
· Given the wide variety of travel options, it’s
hard to be precise. If you can be flexible, you can often find a return
flight from Seattle to Anchorage for around $250. Although
it’s closer, flying to Juneau will cost more, from $50-100
usually--US dollars of course. From Vancouver to Whitehorse, return;
expect to pay at least $200, Canadian.
· Drivers will find gasoline prices moderate in Canada and
low to moderate in Alaska, thanks to the oil pipeline.
· Restaurant prices run higher everywhere; budget about 20%
more than you’d need in urban Canada or the U.S. Motel and
hotel costs are similar to those down south; don’t be afraid
to bargain during the off or shoulder season.
· Cruise fares are complex and bewildering, but if
you’re prepared to do the homework and cost comparison
required, you can obtain remarkable deals. It’s possible to
snag an inside stateroom for a seven-day cruise between Vancouver and
Seward, Alaska, for under $700 per person. This includes stateroom and
meals, but no alcohol or shore excursions. Still, it’s a deal
that’s hard to beat. For a romantic getaway, consider
traveling in the early shoulder season and apply the savings to
upgrading to an outside stateroom with a veranda.
Norm:
If you had to choose 6 unequalled venues in Alaska and the Yukon
Territory for a romantic getaway, honeymoon or wedding destination,
which would you choose and why?
I noticed that you had mentioned to me there is some great hot springs
just south of the Yukon border on the Alaska Highway and in central
Alaska. Perhaps, you would like to elaborate as how this venue
qualifies as a unique romantic destination?
Nancy:
Only 6? That’s not easy; I’ll have to commune with
my inner travel agent! OK, here goes.
For more information, my book Going Places: Alaska and the Yukon for
Families explores each of these destinations in greater detail.
Government Web sites are another good resource.
· Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve, Alaska
It’s accessible (Alaska Airlines offers service to Gustavus,
just outside the park) and offers a taste of just about everything the
north has to offer. Although Gustavus has excellent B&Bs, for
honeymooners I recommend staying at Glacier Bay Lodge, the only
accommodation inside the park, which offers rustic comfort (get a room
with a view of Bartlett Cove), fine dining, and activities like
kayaking, fishing, biking, guided boat tours of Glacier Bay, and free
guided hikes with park rangers. Go flightseeing high above the bay to
get a look at the enormous icefields that generate the glaciers. If
time allows, extend your trip to Juneau (a gorgeous, 3-hour ferry trip
south) to visit Mendenhall Glacier, tour superb museums, shop for
Tlingit art and take a boat tour to Tracy Arm-Ford’s Terror
Wilderness. The lodge is open and tours are offered between late May
and early September.
· Haines Junction, YT
Come again? You may never have heard of it, but this tiny town perched
at the edge of Canada’s spectacular Kluane National Park has
a lot to offer--location, location, location, as they say in real
estate. It’s highway-accessible from Skagway (4.5 hours),
Haines (3 hours) and Whitehorse (1.5 hours). The national
park’s main visitor centre is in town along with a superb
small European-style inn--the Raven--with 12 spacious rooms and one of
Canada’s top restaurants. Also in town are several decent
motels and an excellent bakery and cafe. From here, you can access
excellent hiking trails for all levels of fitness, and explore the
largest protected wilderness in the world. You will need a vehicle. If
you don’t have one with you, rentals are available in Haines,
Skagway and Whitehorse. Or book a stay with one of the area’s
full-service resorts and let them take you exploring. NOTE TO
CANADIANS: For reasons no one seems able to explain, Canadians are not
permitted to bring a vehicle into Canada, which they have rented in the
US. Luckily, Whitehorse has many rental outlets.
· Homer, Alaska
On the southwest of the Kenai Peninsula, Homer is the better part of a
day’s drive from Anchorage. It’s tiny (about 4,000
residents) but with city-sized amenities--such as one of
Alaska’s best bookstores, a first-rate museum, and
exceptional arts and crafts galleries. Homer Spit, which extends 4.4
miles into scenic Kachemak Bay, is studded with cafes and shops. At the
far end, with Homer’s best view, is Land’s End
Resort, a great destination for honeymooners. Book a suite or rent a
luxurious condo. The restaurant is first rate. Soak in the hot tub at
the water’s edge and watch the sea otters float by.
· Denali National Park & Preserve, Alaska
First the bad news: Unless you are lucky enough to win the road lottery
that allows you to drive deep into the park in mid September, you will
have plenty of crowds to contend with. The good news is that
it’s worth it. Not only is this closest you can easily get to
Mount McKinley, wildlife viewing and spectacular scenery are among the
best in Alaska, and accommodation choices are superb and varied. At the
park entrance you can find many choices at all price ranges, some with
views to die for. To get away from the crowds and closer to the natural
world of Denali, consider a stay deep inside the park at the beautiful,
rustic Kantishna Roadhouse or Denali Backcountry Lodge.
· Alyeska Resort, Girdwood, Alaska
This Japanese-owned hotel offers sheer, unabashed luxury. Plus
it’s 40 miles from Anchorage and a day trip from Portage
Glacier and the Kenai Peninsula. In winter come for skiing, tubing and
snowboarding; in summer, for golf, hiking and wildlife. Any time of
year, enjoy the first-class amenities that include a superb health club
and pool and a tram up to a mountaintop restaurant This is a popular
spot for weddings, well equipped to handle even lavish affairs. The
high season here is winter; summer stays can be quite moderately
priced. For a cheaper romantic getaway,
· Muncho Lake, BC
OK, it’s not in the Yukon, but so close! This gorgeous
turquoise lake lies in the northern Rocky Mountains--a little-known but
enchanted region where caribou and stone sheep wander the highways,
fishing is excellent, and crowds are nonexistent. The Northern Rockies
Lodge offers fine accommodation and European dining and arrange fishing
and other excursions. Hiking and fishing are great here, but the
number-one romantic attraction is nearby Liard Hot Springs Provincial
Park, 34 miles up the Alaska Highway. A boardwalk trail leads from the
park’s parking lot to two large hot springs pools. TIP: A
short walk from the first, most popular pool is the second hotter and
deeper pool that’s more secluded and less visited, a great
destination on a drizzly day. Stopping at the springs is a tradition
for just about everyone who drives the Alaska Highway. If you
don’t want to bother with a vehicle, the lodge
(it’s owned by bush pilots) will fly you here from the US or
Canada.
Norm:
You have also mentioned to me that Asian tourists in recent years have
been flocking north in winter on aurora-viewing packages. Could you
elaborate as to what these entail and what can someone expect to see?
Nancy:
These are great fun and growing in popularity every year. For some
years, Chena Hot Springs Resort, a rustic but delightful spot a few
hours drive from Fairbanks, Alaska, has been offering such packages.
The resort has always been a favorite getaway for Alaskans for winter
sports like cross-country skiing and snowmobiling. The resort has
several indoor hot pools, but the favourite is its hot-springs lake
outdoors. Bask in the warm waters, surrounded by snow and subzero
temperatures, while you gaze up at the aurora overhead.
Winter packages include rides on a “snow catch” to
view the aurora. The “aurorarium,” nicely heated,
offers a comfortable vantage point to watch the light show. Yukon and
Alaska tour companies now offer aurora-viewing tour packages, usually
three or four nights.
Norm:
In recent years cruises to Alaska have become very popular. Could you
tell our readers why and do you have any preferences as to which cruise
to take?
Nancy:
· The answer is simple. Some of Alaska’s most
spectacular attractions are to be found along the Inside Passage. Yet,
because they are separated by water and most are inaccessible by road,
the only way to reach them is by plane or boat.
· Another reason: cruise travel is a remarkably flexible way
to plan a vacation. No matter your age or fitness level--honeymoon
couples, large wedding or family-reunion parties, toddlers, college
students, and retirees--anyone can enjoy a cruise. There is onboard
entertainment (usually casino gambling, art auctions, Vegas-style
shows, and gala dining), programs for kids, shore excursions to sample
the principal attractions of major ports of call and whales, bald
eagles and other wildlife to view, all from the comfort of the ship.
· Cruises permit access to a beautiful but remote and rugged
part of the world in sheer luxury. Visiting Alaska, I often encounter
visitors who are making their third or fourth trip, but whose first was
by cruise ship. Considering the bargains available, it’s also
one of the most cost-effective ways to visit the north.
· For those unfamiliar with Alaska, I recommend taking a
one-way cruise from Vancouver, BC, that includes a visit to lovely
Sitka (round trip cruises rarely stop at Sitka). Finishing at Skagway,
Whittier, or Seward, visitors can make their way to Anchorage for a
couple of days and even tack on a short 2-3 day train trip to Denali
before flying out of Anchorage back to Vancouver or the point of
origin. TIP: check out one-way airfares offered by the cruise lines.
They are often cheaper than anything you can arrange on your own.
· Amenities among the biggest cruise lines tend to be
similar. For a romantic getaway on a major line, I like Royal
Caribbean, Radisson or Silver Sea. If you can do without a pool and
gambling, try one of the smaller lines like Cruise West or, Lindblad
(if your wallet can handle the strain).
NORM:
How far in advance should a couple prepare themselves for their
honeymoon, romantic getaway or wedding in Alaska and the Yukon
Territory?
Nancy:
· We’re trending out of my area of expertise here,
but let’s take a wedding first. If you need lodging for 20 or
30 people, you’ll find a wide range of options, many of which
can be booked with no more than 6 month to a year’s
notice--the amount of advance planning most weddings require. If,
however, your guest list includes 80 or more, you’ll find
fewer suitable destinations and those you do find will need to be
booked as soon as possible. A popular choice for weddings, such as the
Alyeska Resort, can be booked far in advance.
· For a honeymoon, if you want the top suite at the Captain
Cook in Anchorage, a remote but popular resort such as the Kantishna
Roadhouse in Denali or a first-class suite on a popular cruise ship,
the sooner you book the better. Otherwise, six months should be
adequate.
· And for a romantic getaway, surprisingly you can often
make spur of the moment plans--especially if you’re willing
to travel in May or September--and find topnotch options. TIP: if
you’re looking for a great place to roost during the summer
high season, try towns along the Inside Passage. Because most tourists
visit via cruise ship or ferry and don’t spend the night, you
can often find excellent accommodation in Ketchikan (try the WestCoast
Cape Fox Lodge with a spectacular view of Tongass Narrows), lovely
Sitka (the Westmark Sitka is a good bet) or Haines (the historic Hotel
Halsingland has several antique-studded suites). But in Juneau, the
state capital, if the legislature runs a summer session the top
hotels--the Goldbelt and the Baranof--are likely to be booked solid.
NORM:
What resources are available on the Internet pertaining to weddings and
honeymoon vacations in?
Nancy:
Again, this is not my area of expertise. The ALYESKARESORT.COM has a
wedding and reception planning page on its website. Anchorage has
several wedding planners, but I’m not aware of any in
Whitehorse. However, a nice thing about the north is the informality
and ease of booking and planning a trip. And maybe it’s the
long cold winters, but even tiny communities in the Yukon and Alaska
usually have up-to-date web sites and are more than happy to help you
find what you’re looking for.
NORM:
Is there anything else you would want our readers to know about Alaska
and the Yukon Territory?
Nancy:
Just one more tip--for adventurous-minded couples with more taste (and
wanderlust) than money, consider touring the Inside Passage via the
Alaska ferry.
Ferries run north year round from Bellingham, in Washington State, 20
miles south of the Canadian border, and from Prince Rupert, BC, up to
Skagway, stopping at Ketchikan (Bellingham-originating runs only),
Sitka, Juneau and Haines. Their website (www.dot.state.ak.us)
is handy for trip planning.
Amenities are admittedly Spartan--but private--staterooms for two or
four passengers, with bath. Bring your vehicle and pet with you. Food
is good and free naturalist programs are offered in summer.
It’s easy to craft an itinerary allowing you to get off and
stay a night or two in each destination before continuing on. If you
want a stateroom and/or you’re bringing a vehicle,
you’ll need to book six months in advance. Or you could do as
Alaskans (even some honeymooners) do--pitch a tent on deck and enjoy
the wild beauty of Alaska at a remarkably low cost.
Thanks Nancy
About the Author: Norm
Goldman is editor of the book reviewing site, www.bookpleasures.com
and the travel site, www.sketchandtravel.com.
Bookpleasures.com comprises over 25 international book reviewers and
author interviewers who come from all walks of life.
Sketchandtravel.com is a travel site wherein Norm's words are melded
with his wife's art work focusing on romantic and wedding destinations.
Source: www.isnare.com |
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©2005 - All Rights Reserved
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